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Mersin, Trabzon from the sky — The Black Sea along the Mersin coastline in Trabzon from the sky

Destinations > Asia > Türkiye > Trabzon Turkey: The Karadeniz Region

Turkey’s Black Sea Coast

Turkey (now officially named “Türkiye”) is famous for its rich historical cities of Istanbul and İzmir; However, there are many less known areas that are waiting to be discovered. If you're looking to avoid crowds, enjoy beautiful natural scenery, and like experiencing unique cultures, then the area nestled along the eastern coastline of the Black Sea - known as the Karadeniz Region - is the destination for you.

Karadeniz translates from Turkish to English literally as “Black Sea” and is a unique sanctuary for those wanting to get away from the stress and chaos of busy city life. This region had the power to remind us of our trips though the valleys of Switzerland, the fjordlands of New Zealand, and the mountain rivers of Colorado.

A trip to the northeastern part of Turkey will offer you a spectacular view of the Black Sea coast on one side and magical fjord-like mountains on the other, complete with many rivers and waterfalls. Step back in time, return to nature, and explore the rich cultural history found only in Turkey’s provinces of Trabzon, Rize, and Artvin!

If you only have a few days, consider this tour to see all of the best highlights that we mention at the end of this article.

“It is necessary to travel for weeks, not days, in the Eastern Black Sea Region. Everywhere is far, everywhere is difficult to reach, it can rain every day; but every corner is worth seeing.” - Fatih Turkmenoglu

Prepare yourself for what to expect in Turkey before you go by picking up this short Customs and Culture guide. It's packed with valuable information that'll help you navigate Turkey without having any issues.

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Trabzon, Turkey

Trabzon, a city located on the old Silk Road, was one of the most important locations during the Ottoman period. Being established as early as 756 BC, it is no surprise that the city has become a history and cultural hub. So, whether you’re a history buff or just someone who loves nature, you can find plenty of things to do in Trabzon. One thing that we highly recommend is trying a Turkish Pizza, known as a Pide, at Konaklar Pide ve Lahmacun Salonu just across from the Trabzon Airport - it was the best Pide that we had in Turkey!

You can see some of the highlights of the city center: including Sera Lake, the Hagia Sophia Museum, Ataturk Kiosk, Forum Trabzon, and the high plateau known as “Boztepe” on a Trabzon City Tour for a more complete experience - or even visit Giresun Island, Giresun Castle & Ordu town for a different experience!

Here are the biggest highlights from outside of the Trabzon city center:

Akçaabat Tuesday Market

Akçaabat Salı Pazarı

Since ancient times, Akçaabat has been known for its market tradition. This tradition, known today as the “Akçaabat Salı Pazarı,” is a giant farmers’ market that occurs every Tuesday.

Evliya Çelebi, an Ottoman explorer who traveled through the territory of the Ottoman Empire and neighboring lands over a period of forty years, passed through Akçaabat in 1640 and wrote in his travel book that ‘Two markets are set up in Akçaabat, on Tuesdays and Thursdays, products from the 100 prosperous villages around it are sold in this market and products are bought by merchants from the surrounding provinces.’ - Akçaabat Municipality

The streets are lined with stands of vegetables and fruits grown in the rich climate of this beautiful mountainous region. Villagers will also be selling quality products such as village eggs, Akçaabat butter, cheese, and yogurt. Buyers in and around Trabzon travel out to Akçaabat for this special Bazaar. It's an amazing cultural experience that we highly recommend trying out!

If you book a full-day Trabzon tour on Tuesday, it’ll include a stop at this market - plus you’ll get to try the famous meatballs and visit the Soumela Monastery as well!

OUR STORY: I did not intend to go the Akçaabat market and had simply requested a ride to the grocery store. The driver, a local English-speaking tour guide by the name of Fatih Bayrak, brought me to this market instead - as it is simply second nature to the people in this area to go to the Akçaabat market if it is a Tuesday. It had never even crossed his mind that I might just want to go to a grocery store instead. Anyway, my experience turned out to be far better at the Akçaabat market! If you’re looking for a great guide, send him a message on WhatsApp at +90 505 615 11 71 or look for his agency: Aktivite 61 Tourism.
Additionally, make sure to stop by the Akçaabat Municipal Fish Market just across the main road and pick up some local Black Sea Sardines, or some Hamsi, from @metinkurt61tr. He will tell you about the fish, how to clean them, and how to cook them the local way. This is a local Turkish dish that you absolutely must try if you eat fish!

Akçaabat Meatballs

Akçaabat Köfte

While you’re in Akçaabat, don’t miss an opportunity to try out the famous Turkish meatballs. Just like baklava and kebab, meatballs (known as “köfte” in Turkish) are also an iconic dish in Turkey. Akçaabat köfte are special and known throughout Turkey for their uniqueness.

Typically, Köfte are small spiced lamb patties made thin in the shape of a slider - despite their meat “ball” name. They are served with a side of pickled or grilled zesty peppers and possibly also with bulgur pilaf, green salad, ayran and other roasted vegetables.

What makes Akçaabat köfte different from the others is that they are typically made from beef instead of lamb. In the 1930s, chefs in Akçaabat decided to only use ground beef from the cattle raised in this area for their recipe. They claimed that using ground beef from a different region would only spoil its unique taste. The other feature of this meatball is its large amount of garlic.

Find your way out to Akcaabat to try the meatballs on the full-day Trabzon city tour.

OUR STORY: We were shown to a local favorite place in town, Ihlas Köfte, where we were able to purchase 1 kilo of meatballs and have them grilled up for us. We gave half to our hosts as a gift for showing us the location. They are very tasty meatballs and they went quite well with a side of rice!

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Soumela Monastery

Sümela Manastırı

This Greek Orthodox monastery was built as a dedication to the Virgin Mary, unseen by the Ottoman Empire. However, no one really knows when the monastery was built, but according to the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism, there is a possibility that it was established by the Greeks late in the 4th century. Other sources claim that it may have been created by Saints Barnabas and Sophronios of Athens and Saint Christopher of Trebizond.

The monastery is carved within a steep cliff of Mount Kadarag about 1,200 meters above the lush green forests. On the inside, it is fully equipped with several chapels, student rooms, a holy spring, and a library. But the most prominent structure is the Rock Church that features biblical scenes of Christ and the Virgin Mary.

Although the Monastery is currently closed for renovations, it is still possible to see it from a viewing platform near the car park. Additionally, you can hike up to the entrance, where there are restrooms, but entry into the Monastery is not possible.

The drive up to the Monastery is on a very rocky road up the side of a cliff next to the raging river, so it is safer to book a tour with a professional driver if you want to get up there. You will also pass by the Karadağ Şelalesi on the drive - a fairly impressive waterfall.

OUR STORY: The first time that we attempted to see the Monastery we went in the afternoon and there was a fog so dense that we couldn't see anything more than a few feet in front of us. Needless to say, we couldn't see it. If you want to see it, we recommend going really early in the morning. The photo above was taken just before 7:00 AM.
The Zigana mountains, around the Soumela Monastery, are reminiscent in some ways to the waterfall rich Lauterbrunnen valley in Switzerland while having the characteristics of the misty, forested mountaintops in the Canary Islands.

Karaca Cave

Karaca Mağarası

Karaca Cave is a unique natural cave southwest of the Karaca neighbourhood. The cave is believed to be about 15 million years old and was first opened up to the public in 1966 - thanks to a geological engineer named Sukru Eroz who conducted studies on this cave. Parts of the drive over the Zigana Mountains, and up to the cave itself, can be a bit challenging, but it’s easier if done on a tour - plus you get to stop at a few other amazing spots along the way.

Taking a step into the cave, you will be greeted by many stalactites and stalagmites in different sizes, shapes, and colours. You can even see a couple of ponds in the cave - one of which reaches a depth of 1 metre. Due to its humidity and cool air, Karaca Cave is a popular site to visit in summer.

A great next stop from here on your way back to either Trabzon or Hamsiköy is at the Torul Glass Observation Terrace, where you’ll get a sweeping view of the mountain valley!

If you’re really adventurous, you can even make it out to the less visited Çal Mağarası (Çal Cave) from Akçaabat on this 6-day Eastern Black Sea tour - it’s considered to be the second longest cave in the world!

OUR STORY: Karaca Cave (Mağarası in Turkish) is a cave high up in the Zigana mountains. As you head here from Trabzon, you'll pass over the cool lush green mountain valleys into the more arid side, where the weather is warmer and the sky is clear. Then you'll drive a bit higher to reach the cave.
It is quite a fascinating cave to see in person, definitely "show cave" worthy, but part of it is currently closed for renovations so it might not take the usual 2 hours to completely explore it right now. We are certainly glad that we visited and recommend it to other travelers.
Plus, the views of the mountain valley outside of the cave are remarkable!

Hamsiköy Rice Pudding

Hamsiköy Sutlac

While in northeast Turkey, you have to try a bowl of Turkish rice pudding - better known as “Hamsiköy Sutlac” in Trabzon. This popular Turkish dessert is made out of milk, rice, sugar, and topped with a good amount of freshly ground hazelnut. The main difference between this rice pudding and others is that it is farm fresh:

thickeners are not added to the dessert during the cooking process
the milk is obtained from Hamsiköy region cows for a unique regional flavor
natural village butter
fresh Turkish seasonal hazelnuts (optional)

Enjoy every last bit of it while sitting somewhere with a great view of the mountains and valley, like Hamsiköy Restoran Çınar Usta. Breathe in the fresh air while tasting this unique Turkish treat.

This is an included stop on the Zigana Mountains and Karaca Cave day tour.

OUR STORY: We stopped here after our visit to the Karaca Cave as we had heard about the famous Hamsikoy Rice Pudding and had to find a place to stop on the way back to Trabzon. While researching some of the best places to have the rice pudding, we decided upon the Hamsikoy Restoran Cinar Usta and were happy that we did.
Not long after we arrived, a tour group showed that we had actually bumped into at the Karaca Cave and we ended up having a conversation. Hakan Çuvalcı from Zağnos Turizm ended up recommending Ikiçay Tea Factory to us, so that we could experience the traditional Turkish Horon Dance, and told us to check out the Sunken City of Karşıköy in Artvin - which we did. We recommend checking out their tours as they know where all the best spots are located!

Black Sea: Dispatches and Recipes, Through Darkness and Light

Ikiçay Tea Factory

İkiçay Çay Fabrikası

You can never say you’ve been to Turkey without trying its tea – or Çay in Turkish. The northeastern region of Turkey, specifically around the Provence of Rize, is where most Turkish tea is grown due to its mild climate, high precipitation, and fertile soil. The area is renowned for its tea production to the point that you can easily spot rows of tea leaves growing on the foothills while you’re driving through the roads.

Turkey has the highest per capita tea consumption in the world. It is the second most consumed Turkish drink, after water.

Turkey accounts for 6.4 percent of the world's total tea production, and nearly 59 percent of that is consumed locally (about 3.7 percent of the world's total tea). Tea is a huge part of Turkish culture!

“If you have guests over, do use a little more tea and water than required. The host is supposed to supply tea as long as the guests’ desire. In Turkish culture you just cannot say, “Sorry, we don’t have any tea left!” This is simply not done, at all.” - The Istanbul Insider

We highly recommend trying a fresh cup of tea at the Ikiçay Tea Factory in Sürmene. You’ll be treated to a tour around a Tea Factory to learn how tea leaves are processed for drinking. It is a great stop on your way to Uzungol, and one that’s included in this day tour to Uzungol as well.

After the Tea Factory tour, you’ll also get to try samples of some of their top tea products, such as their “Kızıl Büyü” (Crimson Magic), their “Maranda Yayla Çayı Karışımlı” (highland tea blended with mountain flowers), and their “El Yapımı Yeşil Çay” (handmade green tea).

Feel free to check out all of the different types of tea products in their store, or online, and then let İkiçay treat you with a local folk dance called the “Horon”!

Turkish Horon Dance

Turkey is widely known for its traditional folk dances, which vary according to the region. A handful are more dominant - such as the Horon - which is popular in the Karadeniz region of the Black Sea.

Originally an ancient sacred ritual, this Turkish traditional dance is accompanied by fast melodies from a kemence, a stringed and bowed musical instrument. Dressed in black and silver, the dancers will perform this dance by making fast and trembling movements in a chain. You can listen to a sample of the Karadeniz Horon here.

Check out this article to learn more about the Folk Music, Local Dances and Summer Pasture Festivals in the Rural Areas of the Eastern Black Sea Region.

OUR STORY: We arrived at the Ikiçay Tea Factory just in time to see one of their free Horon dance shows and highly recommend stopping there to see, hear, and possibly even join in on the dance in person. It's an amazing cultural experience!

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Uzungol - The Long Lake

Uzungöl

Uzungöl is a natural lake in the southeastern part of Trabzon best known for its spectacular surroundings of lush nature, beautiful mountains, and cool clean air. Its stream-filled valley, surrounded by high rising mountains, is reminiscent to the geography of Switzerland in many respects, including a number of small log cabin style resort hotels and restaurants.

Uzungöl is easily the number one talked about destination by locals, followed by the Ayder Highlands in Rize and the Soumela Monastery. It is also the Eco-Tourism center of Trabzon, so it's no surprise that everyone in this region will ask: “Have you been to Uzungöl yet?” Tourism has picked up a bit in this area due to its popularity, so many great tours can bring you here for a day from Trabzon’s city center. If you’re planning to take a walk around the lake, we recommend putting on some sunscreen first!

The lake itself was naturally formed five centuries ago when “rocks falling from the slopes blocked the Haldizen Stream.” The stream, located about 1,100 meters above sea level in the Çaykara region, gets to about 15 meters deep at the lake, which is roughly 1,000 meters long. During the day, you can find several fishermen on the shorelines, sitting and waiting for trout to take the bait.

At night, the view of the mountains - with tall evergreen trees and thick fog - will convince you that you’re in a magical valley.

Our Story: As you walk around the lake you'll find a fairly new children's playground as well as plenty of souvenir shops and restaurants lining the streets. To get a better vantage point, stop at the lookout point near the waterfall “Cerrahpaşa Şelalesi.” However, our favorite view is from the café at the Kar Hotel, Uzungöl.

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Free Travel Guide for Türkiye/Turkey - Top Sights, Sustainability, History, Culture, and Food

This Top Travel Blogs Guide uses only the best travel blogs to give you everything you need to know about Turkey:
top sights to see, best sustainable and environmentally friendly travel spots, accommodations, culture and festivals, historical locations, amazing tours and day-trips, and the best activities and experiences. It also provides info on hospitals, healthcare, visas, retirement, working, and language. It’s everything you’ll need!

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Rize, Turkey

East of Trabzon, Rize is also known for its tea industry. With its emerald green plateaus and traditional villages, the city of Rize is a paradise for nature lovers because it is filled with fertile green mountain valleys, waterfalls, and raging rivers.

Heading southward into Rize along the Firtina River, the road splits in Çamlıhemşin and you can either head towards the Avusor Yaylası (Ayder Highlands) or the Çiçekli Yaylası (Flowery Highlands).

One of quickest and best ways to explore Trabzon and Rize together is with the 4-Day Eastern Black Sea Trabzon Tour. You’ll spend 2 days seeing the very best of Trabzon, including Uzungol, Sumela Monastery, and Karaca Cave, as well as 2 days exploring the best places in Rize, including the Ayder Plateau, Camlihemsin, and Zilkale!

Here are the biggest highlights from outside of the Rize city center:

Camlihemsin Ottoman Bridges & Storm Valley

Çamlıhemşin Köprüleri & Firtina Vadi

Firtina Valley, known as Storm Valley, is a popular destination for both nature lovers and thrill-seekers. The Firtina River is lined with tea-filled rolling hills and about two dozen high-arch Ottoman era bridges, spanning the river length at different points across the 57 kilometer fast-flowing river, and capturing the interest of history and culture lovers alike.

What makes these Turkish bridges appear unique is the structure - many of them have high arches due to the frequent floods. It’s also amazing how the bridges are still standing strong even though they were built over three centuries ago! Learn more about them over tea on the Ayder Highlands day tour.

Relax at KaRRadeniz TaDi Restaurant, a riverside restaurant with traditional food, fantastic views, and even a playground on site. Adventure-seekers can try out the ziplines, and go river rafting. The owners are incredibly friendly people who have traveled all around the world and love inviting fellow travelers in to tell them more about the area and provide them with incredible food, amazing views, and comfortable stays.

OUR STORY: These Ottoman Era stone bridges, estimated to be built in the 1700's, can be found in Çamlıhemşin and Arhavi in Northeastern Turkey. The bridges are quite remarkable given the terrain that they were built around, but the drive to find a few of them was quite a bit more breathtaking.

Ayder Highlands

Avusor Yaylası

Ayder Highland is the perfect place for beautiful outdoor scenery. The rolling highlands of Ayder, punctuated with green valleys and towering mountains, are the best of the Turkish highlands. There are also a number of traditional villages and unique stores and restaurants scattered around the highland that will give you an amazing cultural experience. Expect to see handmade wooden hotels, rolling green hills and gushing waterfalls. Also, visit the hot springs, and taste the delicious local honey.

Simply driving the roads through the Ayder Highlands is one of the most enjoyable parts. You will find yourself in the wild and it will give you a profound experience simply to partake in the road adventure alone. Other highlights include the Bulut Waterfall (Bulut Şelalesi) - located along the hike from TR Cloud River Waterfall Natural Monument, the Gelin Tülü Şelalesi - a waterfall located in the main Ayder Valley village, the Galer Düzü - a forest park, and the biggest highlight - the Kavrun Plateau, located within the Kaçkar Mountains National Park.

The Kaçkar Mountains National Park, which stretches parallel to the coast in the Eastern Black Sea Region, is mostly located within the borders of Rize's Çamlıhemşin district while the other part is within the borders of Artvin's Yusufeli district.

One of the best ways to visit the Ayder Highland and the Firtina Valley on a day trip is by joining this adventure, where you’ll get to see all of the special sites of the Ayder highlands, including the old Ottoman stone bridges and a unique waterfall. You'll also get to meet and mingle with locals and enjoy tasty Turkish lunch! However, it is also included on the 3rd day of the Black Sea Tour.

Baba Ahmet Pansiyon ve Lokantasi in the Ayder Highlands of Turkey — OUR STORY:

Although it was raining and cloudy on the day that we went up to Ayder, we did get a number of magical photos and experienced a seriously authentic mountain meal at Baba Ahmet Pansiyon ve Lokantasi.

The Kavrun Plateau & the Flat Gallery

Galer Düzü

Near the top of the Ayder Highlands you’ll find the Galer Düzü, the “Flat Gallery.” The roadways in this area begin to get difficult to keep traction in with a standard car, so we recommend using an all-terrain, or 4-wheel drive, vehicle if you plan to drive deeper into this area. The forested area provides a great natural place to have a picnic or an overnight camp, but it also has a top rated hike as well! If you happen to venture into this area during festival time, you may also see a traditional bullfight!

One of the only ways to see the Galer Düzü on a tour is by getting this more complete Boutique tour. Additionally, it covers all of the other major highlights of this region as well. Why not make your trip easier and give it a look?

Kavrun Plateau

Going beyond the Galer Düzü will bring you to the Kavrun Plateau, located within Kaçkar Mountains National Park. There are a number of minibus services to Kavrun from the Ayder Plateau each day. While it is possible to reach Kavrun without them, it is a very broken dirt and mud road, like many highland roads. We attempted to drive up this way in a rental car and had to turn back as we were losing traction in too many questionable places, so we highly recommend a 4-wheel drive or all-terrain vehicle if you plan to make this passage on your own through the Galer Düzü and into the Kavrun Plateau.

“On the one hand, fog, on the other hand, narrow dirt roads, suddenly [there’s] water flowing in front of you on the road, you have to get out of the car from time to time and check the depth because this water divides the road. On the narrow [road], green forest on one side and a cliff on the other side, your only chance is to pass straight through, but there is a whole rock with the ground in the middle, [it’s best not to] bet whether the car will pass or hit the bottom.”

Kaçkar Mountains National Park, which surrounds the Kavrun Plateau, is famous for its snowy hills, glaciers, glacial lakes, meadows, rich flora, and dense forests. It has been designated by the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) as among one of the top 200 highest priority eco-regions for global conservation due to its over 130 glacial lakes. These glacial lakes have become the focus of attention of local and foreign tourists.

The deepest glacial lake in Turkey, Deniz Lake (Büyük Peşevit Lake), is located here as well; However it is an ice lake for 10 months of the year as the ice doesn’t begin to melt until about the middle to the end of July. Since it is on the way to the summit of the Kaçkar Mountains, Kaçkar Peak, it is a frequent destination for mountaineers in the summer. Additionally, the longest glacial valley in Kackar Mountains National Park is the Elevit Valley.

The Kavrun Plateau is famous for the Trans Kaçkar hiking route, which provides spectacular views of most of this region. It is divided into two parts:

the Lower Kavrun (Aşağı Kavrun) and
the Upper Kavrun (Yukarı Kavrun).

They sit at 1980 and 2350 meters respectively. The lower Kavrun is a few kilometers from the top, however there is a short additional loop that you can add on to get to the summit. The upper Kavrun is much longer, and thus more popular with serious hikers.

The Kackar: Trekking in Turkey's Black Sea Mountains

Zil Kale - Bell Castle

Zil Kale

Locally known as “Zilkale”, but slightly north of the town with the same name, this historical landmark in Çamlıhemşin stands at the edge of a cliff with an altitude of 750 meters and is surrounded by waterfalls and forests. It was built by the emperors of the Komnenos dynasty during the 14th-15th centuries and used by Greeks and Ottomans, especially the Genoese, through the end of the 19th century, when it was turned into a historical site.

There are garrison quarters, as well as a possible Armenian chapel and head tower that were likely added on by the Empire of Trebizond. There are also arched windows and loopholes located around the tower walls.

Zilkale Castle is surrounded by the gorgeous landscape, giving visitors a great view of the valley, and - if you can spot it - the Firtina River as well. On the list of Turkey's 13 most magnificent castles, Zilkale claims to be the most beautiful castle in Rize, and an important one as it is located along the historical Silk Road.

On Google maps it is listed as “Zil Kale” - with two words - and at the same spot as the Zilkale Kaledibi Cafe, located on site. There is usually a small entry fee and limited parking available.

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Palovit Waterfall / Şelalesi in Rize, Turkey

Palovit Falls

Palovit Şelalesi

Just a short distance away from Zilkale is Palovit Waterfall, a thunderous 15-meter waterfall with an exceptionally high water flow. The roaring sound of the falls is testament to the name “Storm Valley” and enough to automatically convince any visitor to take precautions when getting closer to this powerful behemoth - which reminded me of the power from the Trummelbach Falls in Switzerland. If the sun is present, you can even spot a rainbow that forms in the mist that it creates.

To get to the falls, you’ll first need to drive up the road from the entry area off the main road. The road is mostly paved, but not in great condition, and very narrow. You may need to squeeze against the cliff to allow other vehicles to leave on this one-lane road as it is the only way in or out. If you don’t have experience with tight cliffside road driving, and the ability to reverse down these types of roads if needed to allow through traffic, we wouldn’t recommend making the drive. It is quite steep, but it is driveable in an ordinary car by confident, careful drivers.

As you navigate the road to the falls, you will notice that there is a camping and recreation area on the way to Palovit Waterfall that has a few tables should you feel like having a picnic. It has perhaps the only tranquil and relaxing ambience on this road, apart from the parking area near the falls. Once you arrive at the parking area, you will need to walk about 500 meters up a paved road to the overlook on a cliffside. The falls aren’t very visible from that point as the lush green forest hides it well.

Descend the metal staircase, that is interestingly disguised as a fallen log, to arrive at the bottom of the falls. Do note that the staircase does not feel entirely level and that the sound of the falls, as well as the height of the staircase, is enough to keep most people on full alert as they walk down. You will catch a view of the falls from the middle of the staircase, and you may bravely attempt to take a photo from this location, but do make sure that your balance is your top priority here.

Base of the Falls:

Once you arrive at the base of the staircase, you’ll still need to navigate a very short rock and dirt path to the falls, which remains quite wet - and a bit slippery - due to the mist in the air.

The longer you stay near the falls, the more wet you - and your electronic devices - will become as water lands everywhere. Additionally, the rocks that are used as a perch for taking photos are a bit slippery - so use caution! While the thunder of the falls will keep you on edge, the hard rock base at the falls prevents a deep pool from forming and keeps the water moving rapidly downstream in the shallow river.

We would strongly advise not to walk into the falls as large jagged rocks are regularly being pulled down from above.

Palovit Falls is a very powerful and commanding waterfall. It is a sight to behold.

The Boxwood Forest

Şimşir Ormanı

Boxwood trees grow in the region stretching from the east of the Black Sea to Kastamonu and Zonguldak; However, Şimşir Ormanı, located near the Camlihemsin district, is Turkey’s only Boxwood forest. This 1.5-hectare forest is filled with some of the hardest and strongest trees in the world. The upper surface of boxwood trees are dark green, the lower surface is light green, and the leaves are hard and always green.

Boxwood can form pure forests as well as mixed forests with beech, hornbeam, spruce, alder, fir and maple trees.

“Its flowers, which open in February-March, are yellow in color, and its fruits bearing six seeds are in the form of capsules. The boxwoods around Çamlıhemşin generally grow on the banks of the main streams, in the inner parts of the side streams, in stony places with water under them, and in the rock cracks where there is leachate.”

They are a very tightly built, slow growing tree that are difficult to process - making them very expensive to cultivate and difficult to recover. However, they are used in the construction of small-scale high-quality products because they provide for a very smooth shiny surface. Typical products created using boxwood include: the small parts of musical instruments, spoons, combs, shuttles, backgammon scales, and chess pieces. For these reasons, boxwood trees have been cut down by people throughout history and boxwood forests have mostly been destroyed.

Çamlıhemşin forests have been the least affected by this mass destruction and the only place where large boxwoods can form forests today. While Şimşir Ormanı remains, it is also susceptible to natural dangers as well.

A fight was carried out against the boxwood moth that damaged the boxwood forest. The moth has since ceased to be a threat. More recently, it was determined that a fungal disease was transmitted during the transportation of coal imported from Siberia and spread to the environment, harming the boxwood trees. After the studies were complete, boxwood trees that were 10 to 12 meters tall, and 20 to 30 centimeters in diameter, were vaccinated with a drug that was developed.

OUR STORY: Only a small area of the boxwood forest surrounds the roadway, so you may miss it if you aren’t looking carefully. You’ll be able to find them near the Cancik Dag Evleri restaurant and bungalows. Additionally, if you’re looking for a magical photo with the forest as your backdrop, then head a short way up the road to the Ottoman Stone bridge “Çilanç Köprüsü.”

Varos Castle

Kale-i-Bala

Varos Castle is located about 40 kilometers south of Camlihemsin District. This abandoned 14th-15th century castle is built on a steep cliff perched on the Avup Mountain and played an important role in the region during the Ottoman period and during the cultural and language shift that pursued into a historical Turkic culture, known as “Turkification.” It is close to Başhemşin and Tatos Pass, where the Kaçkar Mountains provided passage to Anatolia, the Asian peninsula of Turkey.

Kale-i Bala literally means “above-high castle,” while “Zirkale”, an alternative form of Zilkale, means “lower castle.”

Governor Bektaş said, “This is a castle built at an altitude of 1,900-2,000, at a point overlooking all the valleys. Necessary restoration works have been completed by the Special Provincial Administration. The road is long and difficult. We are working hard to improve this road and we aim to make Kale-i Bala a tourism center like Zil Kale.”

With its long history, the castle went through several restorations - the 1.5 meter thick inner castle walls were rebuilt in the 6th century and have five semicircular towers that are similar in masonry and topography to Zilkale. The lower walls were restored by the Genoese in the 14th century. The entire castle was then repaired once more during the Ottoman era. Today, the castle serves no general purpose, but efforts are being made to turn it into a tourism destination.

It is very close to the Çiçekli Yaylası, the “Flowery Plateau,” which is definitely worth visiting if you are in the area!

OUR STORY: “So, when we plugged the route in to the GPS for Kale-i-Bala, we thought we might have some issues driving out there in our budget priced rental car. We were right!
The brick & paved roads end at some point about half way between Zil Kale, the other nearby and more frequented castle, and Kale-i-Bala. They become a dirt and rock path with one lane only, making it difficult to find space for oncoming traffic to get around you. Not that there was much traffic out there, but falling off the side of the road would mean ending up in a raging river below.
Don't misunderstand us, the natural beauty of the drive was incredible! We were driving through the beauty of nearly untouched nature, along a magnificent river with all types of cascades, surrounded by mountains, trees, waterfalls, etc. the whole way... But it was a bumpy, slim dirt road without any guardrails.
Then we got to the turnoff for Kale-i-Bala, and the winding, no-railing road up a steep cliff was actually paved... But again, quite a bit nerve wrecking. Once up to the main - but tiny - town, there's still an unpaved rocky one-way road with an extremely steep cliff (again no guardrail) to the top where the castle is... and once you arrive at the castle that road ends suddenly at the entry way - not currently able to drive in (yes, you have to back up down a good portion of the cliffside road before you can find a decent place to turn around!!!). It is quite an adventure, but the drive itself is so magical that the trip is worth it simply for that purpose!”

Artvin, Turkey

Bordering the country of Georgia, Turkey’s Artvin province is attractively surrounded by high mountains, steep valleys, and the Çoruh River system. The wet and mild weather provides for a plentiful amount of forested area and national park lands, including the Borcka Karagol Nature Park and the Macahel Camili Biosphere Reserve. At higher altitudes, including the mountain passes, snow can cover the roadways and block passage during the winter months. Snow capped mountains are visible year round. The forests are home to brown bears and wolves.

The Çoruh River system is excellent for river rafting and now also produces hydro-electric power from 11 different dams, including the Borçka Baraj which sunk the city of Karşıköy. There is also a rich variety of Arifana and Kochari folk songs and dances in Artvin due to its high diversity of peoples. The city of Artvin, the capital of Artvin province, is also popular for its Culture and Arts Festival, which includes bull-wrestling, and is held annually at the Kafkasor Plateau.

On its western border with Rize province, the Kaçkar Mountains as well as a pre-historical cave - known as “Savangin” near the village Bakırtepe which has an inscription written in an unknown alphabet and paintings of deer - are also places of interest.

Here are the biggest highlights from outside of the Artvin city center:

Ortacalar Double Bridges

Çifte Köprü

These bridges span across the junction of two rivers - the Kamilat and Sogucak - and are positioned perpendicular to each other. Similar to each other, and consisting of a single eye, scholars have estimated that they were both built at the same time during the 18th century, during the Ottoman Empire. Due to the absence of inscriptions, an exact date is unknown.

They were renovated in 2002 and may only be used by pedestrians due to their architectural structure and limited width. Modern roads are built slightly upstream from each of the bridges for vehicular traffic.

The Double Bridge is located at the junction of Küçükköy and Arılı, 2.5 kilometers from Ortacalar Village, and are also known as the “Ortacalar Kemer Bridges.”

Mençuna Waterfall

Mençuna Şelalesi

Mencuna Waterfall is one of the natural wonders in the Black Sea region and one of the most visited locations in the area. It has a drop of 90 metres, making it one of the highest waterfalls in the region.

You can go to Mençuna Waterfall by crossing the Çiftekemer Bridge and first turning onto the small village road. After following the small village road along the stream for about 20 minutes, you need to park your vehicle at the first tea purchase place and cross the suspension bridge. This road does have maintenance done on it every year but can be a bit broken.

You can only reach the waterfall by climbing a medium-level trail for about 20 minutes. There are about 700 steep steps and two old bridges to cross before you can see the astonishing view of the waterfall. There are many resting places available along the trails if you need to take a break.

Mençuna Mansions - Mencuna Konaklari

If you wish to stay somewhere around the area, you can head to the Mencuna Mansions. This hidden gem is located just a few minutes away from the waterfalls. With its secluded location in the Kamilet Valley, you can surround yourself with nature while enjoying a Turkish breakfast in peace. They even offer rooms with a view of the waterfalls!

Borcka Karagol Nature Park

Borçka Karagöl Tabiat Parkı

For those who would like to unwind, this is one of the best national parks that you can find in Turkey. It boasts a pristine lake and a view that is out of this world! Although swimming and fishing in the lake are strictly prohibited, due to a strong undertow, you can rent boats to explore the lake. There is also a small waterfall running into the lake that is worth checking out. The natural sounds in the park are incredibly relaxing and calming.

The flora, fauna, and superior landscape features of Karagöl and its surroundings, …formed when a hill near today's "Klaskur (Aralık) Plateau" blocked the Klaskur (Aralık) Stream as a result of a landslide at the beginning of the 19th century.

This nature park also features a very easy hiking trail around the lake; However, you might need around 30-60 minutes to complete the trail as it is a decent sized lake with many facets, especially if you stop for photos. Some parts along the trail are uneven and could be slippery if wet. There are benches, tables and camellias around the daily area and the lake, making it very suitable for camping activities and barbecues! Locals use the lake - and its surroundings - primarily for picnics, eating, drinking, and leisurely walks and resting time.

Access to the Nature Park is mostly provided by asphalt road and 6 km of natural stone paved road. While wildlife such as lynx, wolf, jackal, fox, bear, badger, wood marten, otter, European wildcat, wild boar, roe deer, hookhorn mountain goat, and wild goat have been observed here, they generally do not come near the trail areas during the daytime. Additionally, 40 bird species, salamanders, and three variety of frogs (Bufonidae, Hylidae and Ranidae) - as well as 11 species of endemic plants - have also been identified here.

OUR STORY: This was definitely one of our very favorite spots to stop on our journey around the Black Sea Coast. It was a much needed leisurely morning and afternoon walking around the lake and enjoying nature. Our son wanted to play for about an hour in one of the streams leading into the lake and - while we made sure he didn’t get close to the lake itself - he had an amazing time tossing a few rocks and flowers into the stream as well as chasing a few frogs. It was a wonderful experience!

Sunken City of Karsikoy

Karşıköy Borçka Baraj

The sight of the mountains in this area are enough to blow anyone away. However, Çavuşlu village is now completely underwater. Today, less than half of the minaret from the mosque - and the chimney of the old tea factory - are now visible above the water. They are also the focus of attention of local and foreign tourists.

“If you look closely, but really very carefully, you can feel the roofs of the houses, and vaguely the paths of the sheep. Do not think that the sounds of children, laughter, dreams, the bell of the school, the joy of the holiday morning have been covered by water; they are all there, they are all there forever... I know, the village has moved; I know, before anything bad happened, families moved their living spaces to other houses, neighborhoods, cities. But it's still an indescribable kind of feeling. Rather, it is a ball of emotions that certainly contains sadness, but blended with different things.” - Fatih Turkmenoglu

Hydro-electric power generation was most suitable in the region that Çavuşlu village was located. So, the Muratlı Dam was the first one to be built on the Çoruh river. It was a certainty that the central quarter of the village would be submerged by water when the project began. A year before the dam opened in 2005, the village was evacuated. When it opened, it flooded the entire city. While approximately 700 households remain under water, around 2,000 people moved to the new settlement of the village.

Mehmet Kocaman, the headman of Karşıköy village, said, "During Ramadan, we take our teacher at oil lamps, go to the mosque in our boat and read the call to prayer. It has a different meaning for us, our memories come alive. The fact that the minaret and the factory chimney are outside created a very different image. Thanks to this minaret, many visitors started to come to our village. In this way, we have the opportunity to introduce our village. People who come with their families take the minaret in the water to the camera and take a souvenir photo. Those who want to see this view come here with tours during the summer seasons," he said.

Over the years, all kinds of fish have spawned in the reservoir, and it has produced its own living decor. One can only be curious if this site would be suitable for scuba diving adventures?

Once There Was, Twice There Wasn't: Fifty Turkish Folktales of Nasreddin Hodja

Macahel Camili Biosphere Reserve

Borçka Macahel Camili Biyosfer Rezerv

In 2005, this 25,395 hectare area within the Karcal Mountains and along the border of Georgia - now known as the “Camili Biosphere Reserve” - became the very first UNESCO biosphere reserve in Turkey because it is surrounded on three sides by mountains, filled with green valleys, high alpine meadows, boreal coniferous forests, and temperate deciduous forests - with a temperate rainforest ecosystem - all while not being exposed to much human influence. This is likely due to the fact that the Borcka-Camili highway, which is about 50 kilometers long, is closed to transportation for roughly 6 months of the year due to snow. Additionally, the biosphere reserve has 23 endemic plants and a number of waterfalls - including one of the tallest waterfalls in Turkey, Maral Falls.

This nearly untouched basin, consisting of six very traditional rural villages - known together as “Macahel” - has a unique culture and a number of historical structures.

Numerous archaeological sites can be found within Camili, for instance, the Iremit mosque in Maral village, Tamara’s cave and an arched bridge at the entrance of Efeler village.

The basin is also the only region where genetically pure Caucasus bees have remained untouched, making it one of the three most important bee species in the world. Other animal species that can be found here are brown bears, hook horned mountain goats, mountain roosters, Caucasian vipers, Caucasian salamanders, red spotted trout, and migratory birds of prey.

With pure Caucasus bees being so important, bee-keeping has become especially important in the Macahel region, making honey production one of the main economic activities in the reserve in addition to hazelnut farming. It has become the area where Turkey’s best quality honey is produced, and you can even purchase some online!

These forms of agriculture are marked by labour-intensive procedures, as no pesticides or chemical fertilizers are used. At the end of the 1960s, the local population realized that such chemical products tainted the taste of goods, and subsequently began to emphasize the importance of natural farming processes.

Two interesting things of note:

There are two varieties of Macahel honey: chestnut and linden (flower).
Macahel welcomes nature-loving tourists every year.

One of the only ways to see the Macahel Camili Biosphere Reserve is with the Black Sea Uncut tour from Trabzon - however it also includes the trip to Maral Falls and the infamous Iremit Camii Wooden Mosque before crossing the border into the country of Georgia.

Maral Falls

Within the biosphere reserve and on the northwestern side of the Karcal Mountains is Maral Falls, another one of Turkey’s majestic waterfalls with a drop of around 63-68 meters. The waterfall forms a lake of approximately 100 square meters at the base and is a unique atmosphere which locals refer to as “heaven on earth” with the natural old forest and vegetation around it.

Unlike Mençuna Waterfall, the journey to reach Maral Falls is much more challenging and it is only advisable to people who are skilled at driving narrow rocky cliffside roadways. If you do plan to make the 4km drive up the road to get there, we highly recommended only using a 4-wheel drive vehicle to get through the rough terrain. The roadway passes some very rural villages along the way, and you may begin to believe that you might not be headed towards the falls as there are no signs past the initial turnoff onto this road. We highly recommend using a guide for this one - as it is not something we could not ever fathom doing on our own safely (had we tried we would have likely died!).

Once you reach the parking area, the viewing platform for the falls can be reached by walking for about 10-15 minutes down the steep mountainside on an unmarked pathway, surrounded by forest and next to the upper part of the river, which leads to some railings and stairs that end at a platform. At the waterfall viewing platform, you can then climb down much more steeper stairs to reach the base of the waterfall. However, going down these stairs might not be suitable if you’re traveling with a toddler - unless you feel very comfortable with your footing and can strap your toddler securely on your back. The trail is considerably exhausting, especially on the way back up, but the experience is definitely worth it!

OUR STORY: We were lucky enough to stop at the Macahel Maral Otel and Restaurant after deciding that we couldn’t make the drive to the falls in our standard rental car. Luckily, the owner took up a conversation with us and offered us a tour to the waterfall - one that he typically only offers to guests at his hotel. After hopping into his 4-wheel drive truck and beginning the drive up the road to the falls, we realized very quickly that there would have been no way that we could have completed this long treacherous trip alone. He made the drive seem easy, though, as he drives these roads on a regular basis. We are so glad that we took his offer! If you need to arrange a tour, we recommend contacting him at bayrammetin528[at]gmail.com.

One of the only ways to see the Macahel Camili Biosphere Reserve is with the Black Sea Uncut tour from Trabzon - however it also includes the trip to Maral Falls and the infamous Iremit Camii Wooden Mosque before crossing the border into the country of Georgia.

Maral İremit Historical Wooden Mosque

Maral Tarihi Ahşap Cami

The historical Iremit Mosque is also in the Biosphere Reserve. It was built in 1851 and the entire structure was made out of wood.

From the outside, it looks like just another ordinary wooden house. However, its interior is beautifully decorated with Georgian art, Turkish lanterns, and vibrant contemporary-looking artistic motifs. What makes it even unique is that the colors that you’ll see actually come from the roots of a Eurasian plant called madder.

Artists all around the world, who visit the northern village, are amazed with the contemporary look of the old mosque, saying that this ancient mosque is like a piece of modern art.

This ancestral mosque has survived for almost 2 centuries and is one of the most important historical structures of the region.

OUR STORY: We had a bit of a difficulty trying to find this mosque as there weren’t any obvious signs to follow. However, once we located it, we did notice a tiny wooden sign on the side of the main roadway, next to a tiny little bench for a bus stop, that reads - in blue paint - “Tarihi Iremit Mah, Camii.” It is not listed at the point on Google Maps named “Iremit Camii,” but slightly farther down the road at a spot named “Maral Tarihi Ahşap Cami.” A short walk down the hill from that point leads you to the wooden house-looking mosque where you’ll need to remove your shoes and unlatch the old metal hook on the door before entering. It is worth the effort!

One of the only ways to see the Macahel Camili Biosphere Reserve is with the Black Sea Uncut tour from Trabzon - however it also includes the trip to Maral Falls and the infamous Iremit Camii Wooden Mosque before crossing the border into the country of Georgia.

Once There Was, Twice There Wasn't: Fifty Turkish Folktales of Nasreddin Hodja

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River in Rize, Turkey on the way to Kale-i-Bala

Must See Places on the Black Sea Coast

With just about everything taking our breath away along this area of the Black Sea Coast, it is impossible to provide a “what to do in one day” list for this region.

“It is necessary to travel for weeks, not days, in the Eastern Black Sea Region. Everywhere is far, everywhere is difficult to reach, it can rain every day; but every corner is worth seeing.” - Fatih Turkmenoglu

What we can do, however, is seriously break down each of the 3 areas separately and give you a “if I only had one day in this area” list for each one. So, here goes:

If you only have a single day to spend in Trabzon:

The truth is, you may need 2 days to explore the highlights in the Trabzon province. But, you may be able to accomplish it on your own in a single, very-long day.

Make sure you get up extra early to see Soumela Monastery before the misty clouds and fog rolls in.
Head to the Ikiçay Tea Factory in the late morning and catch a Horon Folk Dance to add some culture into your trip.
Then visit the highlight of Trabzon, Uzungol Lake for lunch and the rest of the afternoon.
Feel free to relax in Uzungol in the evening or do a tour of Trabzon’s city center to learn more of the region’s history.

If you only have a single day to spend in Rize:

For this particular area, you need at least 2 days - one where you head into the Ayder Highlands and another where you head out to Kale-i-Bala, the two different paths from Çamlıhemşin. So, if you only have one day, we’d recommend either taking the day trip from Trabzon or trying this self-guided path:

Drive through the Firtina Valley, stopping at a few of the Ottoman era stone bridges before reaching Çamlıhemşin.
Turn left and head all the way up to the Ayder Plateau, the city where the Gelin Tülü Waterfall is located.
Next, track back to TR Cloud River Waterfall Natural Monument to do a short hike out to Bulut Waterfall.
After the hike, head back down to Çamlıhemşin and take the other path out to Zil Kale castle for the view.
Lastly, stop for dinner at KaRRadeniz TaDi Restaurant, the riverside restaurant with amazing traditional food.

If you only have a single day to spend in Artvin:

Here you are going to need to decide whether you want to make the super long journey to the Biosphere Reserve or not. Half of the year, that option won’t even be available, so - for simplicity’s sake - we will assume that you won’t be headed to the Biosphere Reserve.

Start your morning walking around the lake at Borcka Karagol Nature Park while the weather is nice.
Then, if you desire, make a quick stop in Karşıköy to see the Sunken City before stopping for lunch in Hopa.
Head off to the Ortacalar Double Bridges in the afternoon.
Lastly, drive along the river to Mençuna Waterfall, and have a leisurely hike to the falls.

This whole area is incredibly beautiful, but we know that with only a few days to explore the area, these itineraries will give you the most enjoyable experience possible!

You will get to see all of these highlights, plus a bit more, on the highly rated Enjoy Black Sea Tour. After looking at the itinerary and having been at all of the places, we can honestly say that it would have been much easier if we had just picked this tour from the beginning!

See it all on an 11-day Itinerary

You’ll need to do 3 separate Day Trips, a 2 day trip, and then one 6-Day Tour.

Arrive in Trabzon and then take the Uzungöl Day Trip
Spend your next day doing the Zigana mountains, Hamsikoy village & Karaca Cave Day Trip
Book a tour with Fatih Bayrak to see the Akçaabat market on Tuesday morning. Send him a message on WhatsApp at +90 505 615 11 71 or look for his agency: Aktivite 61 Tourism.
Rent a car for 2 days, and then spend the first night at the Kale-i Bala Palam Pansiyon & Cafe, stopping at the Boxwood Forest on the way.
Return to Trabzon the following day, stopping at stopping at Palovit Falls on the way. Stay overnight in Trabzon and return the car in the morning.
Then, join the Black Sea Uncut Tour for the next 6 days.

Please come back to this page after your trip to let us know how your journey went by leaving a note in the comments section below.

FAQ’s

How can I get to Trabzon and the Karadeniz region from other parts of Turkey or abroad?

To get to Trabzon and the Karadeniz region, you can take a flight, bus, train, or car. There are direct flights from Istanbul, Ankara, Izmir, and other major cities in Turkey to Trabzon Airport, which is about 6 km from the city center. You can also fly to other airports in the region, such as Ordu-Giresun, Samsun, or Sinop, and then take a bus or car to Trabzon. Alternatively, you can take a bus from any major city in Turkey to Trabzon or other destinations in the region. The bus journey can take from 10 to 20 hours, depending on the distance and traffic. You can also take a train from Ankara to Sivas, and then transfer to a bus to Trabzon. The train journey takes about 12 hours, and the bus journey takes another 6 hours. If you prefer to drive, you can take the D100 highway along the Black Sea coast, or the O4 motorway through the inland. The driving time varies depending on the route and the traffic conditions.¹²³

What are some of the best places to stay and eat in Trabzon and the Karadeniz region?

There are many options for accommodation and dining in Trabzon and the Karadeniz region, ranging from budget to luxury. Some of the best hotels in Trabzon are Zorlu Grand Hotel, Ramada Plaza by Wyndham Trabzon, Radisson Blu Hotel Trabzon, and Novotel Trabzon. These hotels offer comfortable rooms, modern facilities, and scenic views of the city and the sea. Some of the best hotels in the Karadeniz region are Ayder Doga Resort, Ridos Thermal Hotel & Spa, and Zitas Zigana Yayla Tatil Koyu. These hotels are located in the mountains, near natural attractions such as waterfalls, hot springs, and forests. They offer cozy rooms, traditional cuisine, and relaxing spa services.⁴⁵⁶

For dining, you can try some of the local specialties, such as hamsi (anchovies), mihlama (cheese and cornmeal dish), kuymak (cheese fondue), karalahana (black cabbage soup), and pide (flatbread with various toppings). You can also enjoy some of the international cuisines, such as Italian, Chinese, or Indian. Some of the best restaurants in Trabzon are Necla Hanimin Yeri, Cardak Pide, Cigkoftem, and Suleyman Restaurant. Some of the best restaurants in the Karadeniz region are Laz Dede, Kackar Balik Evi, and Zigana Alabalik Restaurant.

What are some of the cultural and historical attractions in Trabzon and the Karadeniz region?

Trabzon and the Karadeniz region have a rich and diverse cultural and historical heritage, dating back to ancient times. You can visit some of the impressive monuments, museums, and landmarks, such as the Hagia Sophia Museum, the Trabzon Castle, the Ataturk Mansion, the Sumela Monastery, the Uzungol Lake, the Ayder Plateau, the Zilkale Castle, the Firtina Valley, and the Rize Tea Gardens. You can also experience some of the local festivals, events, and activities, such as the Trabzon International Culture and Art Festival, the Karadeniz Music Festival, the Hamsi Festival, the Kackar Mountain Trekking, the Rafting and Canoeing, and the Paragliding.

(1) Trabzon Turkey - The Karadeniz Region: Fjord-Like Magical Mountain .... https://eatwanderexplore.com/blog/trabzon-the-karadeniz-region-turkeys-fjord-like-magical-mountain-paradise.

(2) Black Sea Region - Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Sea_Region.

(3) BLOG A Trabzon Travel Guide for First Time Visitors. https://bing.com/search?q=Trabzon+and+Karadeniz+region.

(4) TURKEY: Your Travel Guide to Trabzon, Turkey - following the funks. https://followingthefunks.com/2020/08/turkey-your-travel-guide-to-trabzon-turkey/.

(5) BLOG A Trabzon Travel Guide for First Time Visitors. https://www.turkeyhomes.com/blog/post/a-trabzon-travel-guide-for-first-time-visitors.

(6) Trabzon City Guide 2021 - Trabzon Travel Guide - ExpatGuide Turkey. https://expatguideturkey.com/trabzon-city-guide/.

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Family photo at Borcka Karagol Nature Park, Artvin, Turkey

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